10/25/2023 0 Comments Coastal flats coleslaw recipePhotograph: Felicity CloakeĪpart from Claudia Roden, who, in her Book of Jewish Food says she finds coleslaw "most pleasing simply dressed with oil and vinegar," all the recipes I try are for creamy coleslaws. This generates a surprising amount of liquid, but, more interestingly as far as I'm concerned, gives it a delicious but subtle tanginess. Simon Hopkinson and Lindsey Bareham, writing in The Prawn Cocktail Years, marinate their cabbage in sugar, salt and vinegar for an hour, and then wring it out before use. This softens it pretty effectively, but I like a bit of crunch – as long as you've shredded it finely enough, you should be able to use it straight away. Cooks Illustrated salts their cabbage until it wilts, then rinses and pats dry before use. I wonder if this is to perk up an old timer or even to dull the cabbage's slightly sulphurous flavour: either way, I can't see it makes much difference to the finished dish. Valentine Warner uses a mixture of white and red in his recipe in The Good Table, which looks very striking – a Cooks Illustrated recipe suggests red or green, so I use all red, but find the flavour too sweet.Ĭonstance suggests immersing the shredded cabbage in ice cold water, preferably overnight, before use. White cabbages rather than green are favoured, probably because of their superior crunch, although Constance Spry reckons that completely white cabbages have a "particularly sweet and nutty flavour".
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